History of fashion design.
The history of fashion design specifically focuses on the development of the purpose and intent of clothing, footwear and accessories and their design and construction. The modern industry, based on companies or fashion houses run by individual designers, began in the 19th century with Charles Frederick Worth, who in early 1858 was the first designer to sew his label to the clothes he wore. [1] The dress dedicated to Charles Frederick Worth for Elisabeth of Austria was painted by Franz Xaver Winterhalter Fashion started when people started wearing clothes. These garments are usually made of plants, animal skins and bones. Before the mid-19th century, there was never a distinction between haute couture and ready-to-wear. But the most basic pieces of women's clothing are made to order by manufacturers and tailors who deal directly with the customer. Clothing is often shaped, sewn and made to measure at home. When ready-made clothing appears to be sold, this demand is subtracted from the work pressure in the household. The design of these garments evolved from printed designs primarily from Paris, which were circulated throughout Europe and eagerly awaited in the provinces.
Tailors then interpret these patterns as best they can. The designs originate from garments made by the most fashionable characters, usually at court, with their tailors and tailors. Although there was a spread of dry dolls from France from the 16th century, and Abraham Bosse produced fashionable sculptures in the 1620s, the pace of change increased in the 1780s with the further publication of French sculptures in the latest Parisian make-up styles, after which fashion followed. magazines such as Cabinet des Modes. In the 1800s, all Western Europeans dressed the same (or so they thought); Local differences became the first cultural feature of the province and eventually the mark of the conservative farmer [2] At the beginning of the 20th century, fashion magazines and intaglios and newspapers began to record photographs and became increasingly influential. All over the world, these magazines are highly sought after and have a huge influence on public taste. Talented illustrators – among them Paul Iribe, Georges Lepape, Erté and George Barbier – draw beautiful fashion plates for these publications, which cover the latest developments in fashion and beauty. Perhaps the best known of these magazines was La Gazette du Bon Ton, founded in 1912 by Lucien Vogel and published regularly until 1925.
The beginning of couture Edit In the early 18th century, the first fashion designers took the lead as fashion leaders. In the 1720s, the queen's dressmaker Françoise Leclerc was sought after by the women of the French aristocracy [4] and by mid-century Marie Madeleine Duchapt, Mademoiselle Alexandre and Le Sieur Beaulard all gained national recognition. base from French nobility to foreign aristocracy. [5] However, Rose Bertin is often considered the first internationally recognized fashion designer. Rose Bertin (2 July 1747 – 22 September 1813), nicknamed the "Minister of Fashion", was the designer and dressmaker to Marie Antoinette, Queen of France, from 1770 to 1793, until she was forced into exile in London by the French Revolution. .. [6] Marie Antoinette, an outsider to the French court, relied on Bertin's careful arrangements to help him "fight his enemies in style." Marie Antoinette's unique fashion preferences, such as men's riding breeches or simple mousseline dresses, which are very different from elaborate jackets, as the queen tries to create a personality that French citizens can associate with her and his lifestyle. Although Marie Antoinette's attempt largely failed, the way Bertin helped the queen express herself through fashion was groundbreaking and set the standard for monarchs and her designers, such as Louis Hippolyte Leroy, to follow. And in the early 1800s, designers such as Ann Margaret Lanchester and Mary Ann Bell expanded their businesses and published their own designs in fashion magazines.
In the first half of the 19th century, Parisian fashion designers such as Madame Vignon, Madame Victorine, and Madame Palmyre often did not independently design a product for their clients to purchase, but instead created a product of work. with your clients as desired. , to create something unique. [8] An Englishman living in Paris, Charles Frederick Worth (1825 - 1905) is considered the first designer in the modern sense of the term, with a large company with many anonymous tailors and seamstresses. A former draper, Worth's success lay in his ability to dictate what customers should wear. Introduced as chief designer by Empress Eugenie, Worth uses her royal connections to gain recognition and clients. Napoleon III's proclamation on 1 February 1853 that no guest would be admitted to his court without formal attire meant that the popularity of Worth-style dresses became overwhelming. Embellished and made from the finest materials, Worth jackets are very famous for their crinolines (as well as the metal key structures that keep the dress in stylish shape). In the early decades of the 20th century, haute couture came from Paris and, to a lesser extent, London. Department stores also sent shoppers to Paris movies where they bought clothes to copy (and apparently stole the style lines and cut details of others). Both the bespoke salons and the ready-to-wear department showcase the latest trends in Paris, tailored to the lifestyle and paperback stores' assumptions of their target audience.
1800s fashion
Portrait of Giovanni Boldini (1845-1931) Portrait of Elizabeth Wharton Drexel in 1905. The clothes worn by women of fashion during the Belle Époque (1871-1914) bore a striking resemblance to those of famous fashion pioneer Charles Worth. At the end of the 19th century, the horizons of the fashion industry expanded due to the robust and independent lifestyle of wealthy women and the practical clothing they demanded. However, Belle Époque modes still retain the intricate, sartorial style of the 19th century. Changing fashion is unthinkable, so the use of different embellishments is all that differentiates a dress from one season to another. Blatant waste and conspicuous consumption determined the trends of the decade, and the clothes of the designers of the time were luxurious, graceful and carefully made. The curved S-Bend silhouette dominated fashion until around 1908. The S-Bend corset pushed the chest towards the breasts and used padding to place the hem on the dress and, above all, a certain posture that was completely independent of the corset, creating the illusion of an "S" silhouette.
At the end of the decade, Paul Poiret introduced designs without a petticoat or corset, and the S shape went out of fashion. This is a fundamental change, since women's waists have been shaped by corsets since the Renaissance. [10] Founded by the English tailor John Redfern (1820-1895), Maison Redfern was the first fashion house to offer women's sportswear and tailored suits for their male counterparts, and their practicality and sober elegance soon became a must for the well-worn. wardrobes. - dressed women. 10s of the 20th century Edit Main article: 1910s in fashion By the early 1910s, the fashionable silhouette had become softer and smoother and softer than in the 19th century. When the Ballets Russes staged Scheherazade in Paris in 1910, the dream of Orientalism came true. Couturier Paul Poiret was one of the first designers to translate it into the world of fashion. Poiret's clients immediately became harem women in flowing trousers, turbans and bright colors, and geisha in exotic kimonos.
Poiret also created the first dress that could be worn by women without the help of a girl [11] During this period, the Art Deco movement began to appear and its influence can be seen in the designs of many designers of the time. Simple felt hats, turbans, and tulle skirts replaced the popular headgear styles of the 19th century. It is also worth noting that the first real fashion films of this period were organized by Jeanne Paquin, one of the first women's designers, who was also the first Parisian designer to open foreign branches in London, Buenos Aires, Madrid. [12] Two of the most influential fashion designers of the time were Jacques Doucet and Mariano Fortuny. Doucet glows in layers of pastel colors and her intricately curled dress hints at impressionistic shimmers of reflected light. His famous customers never lost taste in his fluid lines and fragile, poor materials. While Doucet follows imperatives that leave little to be desired in the imagination of designers, he is nevertheless a designer of great taste and discrimination, a role that has been attempted many times since, but rarely with Doucet's level of success. Venice-based designer Mariano Fortuny y Madrazo is an interesting figure who has little to do with any age. She created a special pleating process and new dyeing techniques for her clothing designs. She gave the name Delphos to her color-matched long-sleeved dress.
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